Embracing Flex Drinking vs All Out Assault on Alcohol

This piece is drawn from a recent conversation I had with Susan Kostrzewa, one of the most respected voices in the wine industry. Susan brings more than two decades of experience as a wine journalist and editor, including over a decade as Editor in Chief of Wine Enthusiast.

She is currently Editorial Director at James Suckling, and also serves on the advisory board of the Belle & Bottle Foundation, where she helps guide our mission to support and elevate women across wine, food, and hospitality.

Our conversation focused on the growing no- and low-alcohol category and what it signals about wellness, moderation, and changing consumer behavior — not as a trend report, but as an honest, nuanced look at how the industry is evolving in real time.

What follows is an edited reflection of that discussion.

Over the past year, the conversation around no- and low-alcohol beverages has gotten louder — and more polarized. Between wellness headlines, shifting consumer habits, and sweeping health claims, it can be hard to tell what’s signal and what’s noise.

So I sat down with Susan Kostrzewa, longtime wine journalist and industry leader, for a candid conversation about what’s actually happening in the wine world right now — and what it means for producers, retailers, and consumers alike.

Susan recently attended a Les Dames d’Escoffier New York event focused on emerging food and beverage trends, where one of the featured panels explored wellness-driven beverages, including no- and low-alcohol options. That conversation helped frame a much broader discussion between the two of us — one that goes beyond headlines and into lived experience inside the industry.

Here’s the context that makes this conversation worth having:

While no- and low-alcohol wines still account for roughly 1% of total wine consumption, the category is growing quickly. The global non-alcoholic wine market is estimated at just under $3 billion today and is projected to reach approximately $5 billion by 2028, representing high-teens annual growth over the next several years.

In other words, this isn’t about replacement — it’s about optionality.

What follows isn’t a transcript. It’s a distilled, edited reflection of our conversation — capturing the most important insights about:

Wine finds itself in an unusual moment — not because people suddenly stopped loving flavor, ritual, or connection, but because the definition of what people reach for in a glass is expanding.

Susan describes today’s consumer as increasingly flexible. Many people now move between alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages depending on the day, the occasion, or how they want to feel. Some call these consumers “flex drinkers.” Others use the term “zebra striping” — alternating between drinking and not drinking.

The key insight: this shift isn’t anti-wine. It’s pro-choice.

One of Susan’s biggest takeaways from recent industry conversations is perspective. Despite the attention it receives, no- and low-alcohol wine remains a small slice of overall consumption.

But its rapid growth matters because it reflects something larger: people want options.

They’re thinking less about labels and more about how a drink fits into their lives — clearer mornings, better sleep, social connection without excess, and beverages that match a mood or moment rather than a rigid rule.

Beyond wine itself, Susan pointed to the rise of functional beverages — drinks positioned around mood, effect, or experience. Ingredients like herbal blends, adaptogens, and cannabinoids in certain markets are reshaping how consumers think about what a drink should do for them.

Whether these products ultimately replace anything is beside the point. They are training consumers to ask a new question:

What does this drink give me — beyond alcohol?

Wine’s historic answer has always been story, place, people, and pleasure. The challenge — and opportunity — is translating that value into today’s wellness-driven language without losing authenticity.

Not every winery can realistically produce de-alcoholized wine. The process can require specialized equipment and added cost, making it difficult for smaller producers.

But Susan emphasized a more immediate opportunity: how wineries show up in their hospitality.

Offering thoughtful non-alcoholic options in tasting rooms — for designated drivers, pregnant guests, or anyone choosing moderation — signals awareness and inclusivity. It expands who gets to participate in the wine experience without diminishing it.

In a market where direct-to-consumer relationships and experiences matter more than ever, that openness can be a differentiator.

Public messaging around alcohol has become increasingly absolute, often grouping wine, spirits, and beer together under a single umbrella of risk.

Susan cautions against oversimplification. Every body is different. Context matters. Moderation isn’t one-size-fits-all — especially for women navigating pregnancy, hormonal shifts, or personal health considerations.

This is where nuance matters most. Consumers deserve information that helps them make informed decisions — not fear-driven headlines.

A recurring theme in our conversation was awareness. Some non-alcoholic or low-alcohol products rely on added sugars or additives to rebuild body and flavor after alcohol is removed.

The takeaway isn’t to dismiss these products — it’s to ask questions.

The same curiosity we bring to food sourcing applies here: what’s in the glass, how it’s made, and how it fits into your life.

Independent wine shops and knowledgeable restaurant teams can be valuable guides, helping consumers navigate options that align with their preferences and values.

One of the most compelling points in our conversation was a reminder that social connection matters deeply to health.

Wine has long played a role in creating ritual — bringing people together around a table, a story, a place. Even in a flex-drinking future, that role doesn’t disappear.

Instead, it evolves.

Wine doesn’t need to be the only option at the table — but it can remain a powerful connector for those moments when people choose it.

Susan’s outlook is grounded and optimistic. Sparkling non-alcoholic wines are currently leading in quality. Reds still need work. Low-ABV wines may become the most accessible bridge for many producers.

But the larger story isn’t about winning or losing categories.

It’s about understanding that people aren’t leaving the table — they’re expanding what’s on it.

If you’re a flex drinker, I’d love to hear what that looks like for you. Are you no-alcohol during the week and wine on weekends? Do you rotate based on sleep, stress, training, or life stage? And if there’s a no- or low-alcohol brand you genuinely enjoy, share it in the comments — I’m building a list worth exploring together.